The Amalfi Coast had been at the very top of my travel list for years. And was so happy to finally being able to go. I spent six days exploring Sorrento, Positano, Capri, Naples and Pompeii. Think lemon-scented streets, pastel houses tumbling down the cliffs, and that impossibly blue sea. In this post, I’m sharing my full Amalfi Coast itinerary and all my best tips. Plus, of course, exactly what I wore. Because figuring out what to wear in the Amalfi Coast is half the fun.
This is a real, honest account of my own trip. I’ll cover what worked, what I’d do differently, and how much things cost. I’ll also share the outfits that were both chic and practical, even for long days of walking and cobblestones. Whether you’re building your own Amalfi Coast itinerary or just here for the outfit inspiration, I hope this helps.
Let’s get into it.
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Table of Contents
- When to Visit the Amalfi Coast
- Where to Stay
- First Day: Sorrento
- Day 2: Positano
- Day 3: Sorrento & Naples
- On Day 4: Capri
- Day 5: Pompeii
- Day 6: Back to Paris
- Final Thoughts
When to Visit the Amalfi Coast
If you want my honest opinion, late spring (May-June) and September are the best times to visit the Amalfi Coast. The weather is warm, the sea is still swimmable, and the crowds are far more manageable than in the chaos of July and August.
I’d add one honest note: early autumn weather can be a little unpredictable, so if you go in September, build some flexibility into your plans and have a rainy-day option ready (more on that below). The upside is huge though — the towns feel calmer, the light is golden, and everything feels a little more magical without the peak-summer crush.
If swimming and beach days are your priority, aim for June to early September. If you prefer sightseeing, walking and photography with fewer people, late September into early October is gorgeous. Just pack a light layer and maybe a compact umbrella, just in case.
Where to Stay
We based ourselves in two spots: Sorrento first, then Naples. I’d really recommend this combination — Sorrento is the perfect relaxed base for the coast, and Naples is ideal for day trips to Capri and Pompeii.
In Sorrento, we stayed at the Minerva Hotel, which I’d happily recommend — the views over the water are incredible. In Naples, we stayed at Hotel San Pietro, a comfortable and well-located base for exploring the city and getting to the port.
If you’d like a few more well-rated options to consider:
Sorrento hotels:
- Minerva Hotel — where we stayed; stunning sea views
- Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria — iconic luxury, historic and central
- Maison La Minervetta — boutique, design-led, with beautiful views over Marina Grande
- Hotel Antiche Mura — comfortable mid-range option in the heart of town
Naples hotels:
- Hotel San Pietro — where we stayed; comfortable and well located
- Grand Hotel Vesuvio — classic seafront luxury with bay views
- Romeo Hotel — sleek, modern, with a rooftop pool
- Decumani Hotel de Charme — characterful boutique stay in the historic centre
A quick honest note on Sorrento: the taxis are surprisingly expensive. We paid around 20-25€ for an eight-minute ride from the station. Apparently it’s because the drivers only work about six months of the year, so prices run high. If you can, use the local trains and buses instead — they’re a fraction of the price.
Day 1: Sorrento
We flew into Naples on a morning flight, then took a shuttle straight to Sorrento (around 1 hour). Sorrento became our home base for the first few days, and it’s such a lovely, walkable town to settle into.
On our first evening, we took the little tourist train for a quick 30-minute loop around the town — a sweet, easy way to get your bearings before finding somewhere for a drink and dinner.
Where to eat in Sorrento: We had a really good meal at Azz! Sorrento — highly recommend. A few other well-rated spots worth booking: L’Antica Trattoria (romantic, traditional), Ristorante Il Buco (refined, Michelin-recognised), and Inn Bufalito (great for local mozzarella and casual dining).
What to shop in Sorrento: Sorrento is famous for its limoncello and lemon products — beautiful edible gifts. You’ll also find gorgeous local ceramics, handmade leather sandals, and inlaid wood (intarsio), which the town is known for.
What I Wore in Sorrento
A yellow dress with sandals and a bucket bag for the day, a red maxi dress for dinner
Day 2: Positano
Positano was the day I’d been dreaming of. To get there from Sorrento, we took a quick bus from near our hotel to the train station (just a few minutes), then a second bus from the station all the way to Positano — about an hour. We did the same in reverse to come back. The SITA buses are very affordable (around 2.60€ for the Sorrento-Positano stretch), but a quick honest tip: buy your tickets beforehand at a tabaccheria or bar, because you can’t buy them on board, and the afternoon buses back from Positano get very busy. Give yourself plenty of time.
Going in the shoulder season meant Positano was beautifully quiet — none of the peak-summer crowds. Honestly, it made the whole experience so much more enjoyable: those famous pastel houses, the steep little streets, and the sea stretching out below, all without the crush of people. We had a lovely lunch and just soaked it all in.
Where to eat in Positano: Buca di Bacco is a good, reliable choice right by the beach. A few more well-rated options: La Tagliata (rustic, family-run, up in the hills with incredible views), Chez Black (a beachfront classic), and Next2 (modern, elegant, romantic).
What to shop in Positano: Positano is THE place for “Moda Positano” — flowing linen and cotton dresses in bright prints, handmade leather sandals (you can even have a pair made to measure), and beautiful resort wear. The perfect spot to pick up a holiday outfit you’ll wear for years.
What I Wore in Positano
Two outfits, one for walking, one for a cute pic. The first one a striped shirt with white shorts and sneakers. Second one, a set of a white blouse and maxi skirt with sandals.
Day 3: Sorrento & Naples
We spent a slow morning back in Sorrento before moving on to Naples for the second half of the trip. The highlight of the morning was Marina Grande: the colourful houses stacked up the hillside are absolutely beautiful, and it has the most relaxed, authentic feel — this is where the local fishermen keep their boats. I’d also recommend looking into one of the spas near Marina Grande if you want a slow morning (we tried to book one but it was fully booked — so reserve ahead!).
In the afternoon, we took the Circumvesuviana train to Naples (about 1 hour 20). Naples deserves more than just being a launch pad for day trips. We had a rainy afternoon, which turned out to be the perfect excuse for some culture: we visited a contemporary art gallery, the Galleria Umberto I (a breathtaking 19th-century glass-and-iron shopping arcade), and the Palazzo Reale (the Royal Palace) — room after beautiful room, and a lovely way to spend a wet afternoon. One tip: check the metro lines before you set out, as one was closed when we visited and we ended up walking back in the rain!
This is exactly why I recommend having a rainy-day plan if you visit in the shoulder season — museums, galleries and palaces make a grey day feel special rather than disappointing.
Where to eat in Naples: Naples is the home of pizza, so it’s a must. Well-rated spots include L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele (legendary, no-frills), 50 Kalò (modern, acclaimed), Pizzeria Gino e Toto Sorbillo (a Naples institution), and Concettina ai Tre Santi (creative, elevated).
What to shop in Naples: Naples is wonderful for artisanal finds — handcrafted nativity figures from Via San Gregorio Armeno, beautiful leather goods, tailored pieces (Naples is a tailoring capital), and incredible food to take home: coffee, pasta, and sfogliatella.
What I Wore in Sorrento & Naples
Day outfit, midi dress with denim jacket and sneakers. Dinner outfit, off the shoulder blouse with jeans and sandals.
Day 4: Capri
We did Capri as a day trip from Naples, and it was one of the most memorable days of the whole trip. We took the ferry from Naples port (around an hour) — we booked our tickets online the night before, which came to roughly 25-30€ each way plus the island landing fee. A couple of honest tips: you need to collect a paper boarding card at the port (the online confirmation alone isn’t enough), and if you get seasick like me, sit in the middle of the boat so you feel the movement less.
When we arrived at Marina Grande, we made one mistake I want to save you from: instead of taking the funicular up to Capri town, we walked — up endless steep stairs. It was tough! Take the funicular up (it’s just 2€), and you can always walk down if you like. Once we were up, the views were unreal.
We spent the day wandering, visiting the Giardini di Augusto (the Gardens of Augustus) with their famous panoramic views, and Villa Lysis, which is stunning and perfect for photos. We’d hoped to take the chairlift up Monte Solaro, but it was closed that day — worth checking ahead. We finished chasing the sunset from the high rocks, which was magical.
Where to eat in Capri: We had lunch at Grottino, a lovely classic spot, and the best gelato at Tavola Calda Gelateria. A few more well-rated options: Da Paolino (the famous lemon-tree restaurant), Ristorante Michel’angelo (relaxed, great views), and La Capannina (an elegant Capri institution).
What to shop in Capri: Capri is famous for its handmade leather sandals (the original Capri sandal!), limoncello, and beautiful resort wear and linens. It’s chic, polished, and the perfect place for a special holiday treat.
What I Wore in Capri
Two outfits here too. First one, an of the shoulder shirt with large trousers and sneakers (for walking, worn sandals just for the pic). Second one, a white off the shoulders dress with sandals (for the iconic photo in the villa).
Day 5: Pompeii
We took a day trip to Pompeii, and while getting there was a bit of a faff (we took a Trenitalia train towards Salerno, around 2.80€ one way — though honestly the Circumvesuviana or metro might have been simpler), it was absolutely worth it.
Entry to Pompeii is currently around 20€ for the standard “Pompeii Express” ticket (prices have risen a little recently, so do check the official site, vivaticket.com, before you go — tickets are now nominative, meaning your name is on them and you’ll need ID). At the entrance, you can rent an audio guide or buy a book that explains everything — we chose the book so we could keep it as a memento.
We spent about three hours wandering the ancient streets, and it’s genuinely breathtaking — standing in real Roman homes that are still so well preserved. It’s a must if you’re even a little interested in history.
Honest tip: wear trainers or comfortable flat shoes. You walk a LOT on uneven ancient stone, so this is not the day for cute sandals.
What I Wore in Pompeii
I also had two outfits for Pompeii. One for walking (shorts, tee and sneakers) and this red dress and sandals for the pic. The yellow slip dress was my dinner outfit in Naples.
Day 6: Back to Paris
Our last morning was a slow one — a final coffee, a last wander, and packing up before heading to the airport for our flight home. Six days felt like the perfect amount of time to get a real taste of the Amalfi Coast, Capri and a little history, without feeling rushed.
Final Thoughts
The Amalfi Coast lived up to every bit of the dream — even with a couple of rainy days thrown in. From the pastel cliffs of Positano to the quiet beauty of Marina Grande, the magic of Capri at sunset, and the history of Pompeii, it’s a trip I’ll never forget. Plus, figuring out what to wear in the Amalfi Coast — chic but practical, beautiful but cobblestone-proof — was half the fun.
If you’re planning your own Amalfi Coast itinerary, my biggest tips are: go in the shoulder season, use the buses and trains over taxis, book your spa and restaurants ahead, and always carry a back-up plan for rain. And of course, pack outfits that make you feel wonderful in photos but can handle a lot of walking.
Save this guide for your trip, and happy travels! 🍋
